Trip of a lifetime through Turkey

A little Turkish goes a long way

2009-06-18T01:26:41Z

In my travels around Turkey I realised how much knowing a little Turkish really goes a long way. So I thought I would share the most important things I learned whilst I was there. I can't promise that it will be spelt correctly but I will do my best.

Hello : Merhaba (Mer-ha-bah)

Goodmorning : Günaydin (gun-eye-den)

Thank you : Teşhekkür ederim (te-sher-kerr-ed-er-rem)

You’re welcome : Birşey ederim (bee-shey ed-der-rem)

Thanks : Sağ ol (sowl)

Thank you very much : Çok sağ ol (chock sowl)

No thanks : Yok sağ ol (yock sowl)

Yes please : Evet lütfen (eh-vet lewt-fen)

Please : Lütfen (lewt-fen)

Good/beautiful : Güzel (gew-zelle)

Very good/beautiful : Çok güzel (chock gew-zelle)

Yes : Evet (eh-vet)

No : Hayır (higher)

Cheers : Şerefe (share-eh-fah)

Goodbye (when I am leaving) : Hoşçakal (hosh-cha-kahl)

Goodbye (when they are leaving) : Güle Güle (gew-lay gew-lay)

Coffee : Kaveh (car-vay)

Tea : Çay (chai)

Water : Sü (sue)

Mineral water : Mayden suyu (may-den sue-you)

Milk : Süt (soot)

Pistachio Magnum please: Fistik Magnum lütfen (fis-stick magnum lewt-fen)

A little Turkish goes a long way remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Istanbul traffic, one last photo and a coffee to go

2009-06-01T01:00:58Z

As I write this I'm sitting at home. Home! After unpacking last night I've had a good nights sleep. This morning I've had a strong skinny soy latte, a long walk with Savvy and my sister and now thinking about what delicious delight I could have for lunch.

But before I do that I wanted to record my last adventure...

...Back in Istanbul I climbed into the very late shuttle bus assuring myself that I would not miss my flight. Besides, stressing about getting to the airport on time was not going to get me there any faster. So instead I sat back and took my last look at Istanbul as it wizzed...well actually I could have got out and walked faster...past. Sometimes I think it's the getting to and from the airport in a foreign city that is the most exciting. There were nine of us and one driver. A driver who had full conversations with the cars next to him on the road as we crawled through late afternoon traffic.

Everyone seems to speak on their mobile phones when they are weaving in and out of traffic. It was no different for our driver and for half of the trip I felt like I was back in the Grand Bazzar. But he got us there just in time. My pack was considerably heavier than when I left - in fact, even with turfing a lot of the heavier stuff my pack was 6.9kg heavier than when I left!

I found one last place to take a photo after checking in my luggage. The toilet! Now, I've seen some strange English translations whilst in Turkey but this one really did seem very strange. Above the toilet there was a sign saying 'Please help us save water - flush twice.' Interesting tactic for saving water.

As I waited I treated myself to a starbucks mocha latte with two extra shots. It only cost me 11 TYL!!! Well, what am I going to do with 12TYL at home?

I was looking forward to some chilled out time of the plane. Breathing easily with the knowledge that my being hassled by men days were over...hmmm

Hello African business man (dealing in spare parts?) who thought it would be a good idea if I give him my contact details for when he comes to Australia to sell his spare parts (I didn't like to ask). Luckily I convinced him that Melbourne really was just a small town and that he was more likely to need a contact in Sydney which was a long train ride from my home. It was a LONG four hours to Dubai.

I figured I had done my dash with the uncomfortable start of my journey home so was hoping/praying that the next leg of 13 1/2 hours I would be sitting either next to no one or a very small person (Mr Spare Parts was a rather large man) with no interest in talking. Ask and it is given! Two seats all to myself which made the journey that little less arduous. Still, fourteen hours is fourteen hours. After what felt like days we landed in Melbourne...a considerably cooler Melbourne.

The adventure has truly come to and end. I hope those of you who have found the time to read my rambling have found it interesting and perhaps even felt a little like you were there yourself. Clearly I can highly recommend Turkey as a destination guaranteed not to dissapoint.

Hoscakal Turkey!

Now to plan my next adventure!

Istanbul traffic, one last photo and a coffee to go remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Mummies, baklava and fish sandwich...last rites of Istanbul

2009-06-01T01:03:58Z

What does one do on their last day in Istanbul? When you know you fly out in the late afternoon it's kind of weird filling in your day. But I had two things left on my Istanbul to do list. One: the Archaeology Museum. Two: Baklava.

It is another sunny day in Istanbul and I know that it will be quite some time before I experience this kind of warmth again.

After a slow morning where I miraculously fit EVERYTHING in my pack, I treated myself to an espresso macchiato which was more like a very small cappuccino. Still, it was real coffee! I can already hear the sound of the espresso machine at home as I make my strong, skinny soy latte... And it won't cost me 5.50TYL! But then I did get to listen to some Ben Harper this morning whilst I was there and have the coffee guy keep asking me if I understood what he was saying, which was pretty much 'can you understand?' I certainly could understand that.

Off to the Archaeology Museum I go. Along with about seven classrooms of eight year olds. I am soooo glad I made it there. Only 10TYL and I loved it. I kept snapping and snapping away and I literally have 1 photo left on my camera. Just one. So I better not see anything else worth taking a photo of. Also scattered around the museum were art students which gave the place a 'living art' feel. I am again amazed at the museums in Turkey. You can touch nearly everything. Well you are allowed to but I just couldn't do it. In some parts you were not able to take photos with a flash or with a tripod. Which of course basically meant that if you don't have a steady hand...very blurry (or I like to call them artistic) shots is all you get.

In the early afternoon I wandered across the Galata bridge with the anticipation of baklava spurring me on. And of course it was worth it!!! A box to take home and two to indulge on the spot. It is my last day after all. On the way back I grabbed a fish sandwich from the dramatically rocking fishing boat on the water. After eradicating the smell of fish from my hands I began to stroll through the masses of people. Where would I spend my last remaining hours in Istanbul?

Back to my favourite hiatus. Gulhane (Gool-hahn-e) Park. Again there were kids everywhere but they didn't hound me this time. Instead their laughter and squeals of delight added to the atmosphere. A few texts from home and I am ready to jump on that plane. Mum tells me there may be a delay at the end due to the swine flu panic. Lucky for me I'm as healthy as a horse...well, an Australian horse not one from the Princes' Islands.

Wandering through the market area I'm not hassled any more as they seem to know I'm not buying. I go to my local supermarket (really more like a milk bar) and he again gives me a free gift with such enthusiasm - more dental gum! Not sure if he is trying to tell me something.

Back to the hostel - my bags are still there in the cleaners room. And here I sit waiting for my shuttle bus to arrive. I can't believe it is almost over. This trip has exceeded my expectations - which were pretty high!

Mummies, baklava and fish sandwich...last rites of Istanbul remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Tram, palace, kebab and fistik magnum...just another day

2009-06-01T01:07:01Z

I slept in this morning. Thanks to working out I could sleep more securely with a pillow wedged up on my left side where the bed slopes downwards. It is strange to think that my Turkish adventure is almost over. And there is still so much to see!

Today I decided to jump on a tram to the Dolmabahce Palace. What I didn't realise was that you HAVE to take a guided tour. And it being tourist season I had to wait in an impressively long line, in the sun, for about an hour. But it was worth is. Such a pity that you aren't allowed to take photos inside this extraordinary place 'cause I would easily have taken a couple of hundred. So incredibly opulent. It was like something out of a fairytale. Including a crystal staircase! Every surface was covered with something, be it a carpet, a chandelier, an ornate dinning setting, a painting, etc. etc. I was thoroughly enthralled by it all that my radar was malfunctioning and I somehow got myself caught up in a 'light' conversation with a man...a Turkish man. Ah yah! Leave me alone! I wanted to scream at him.

He wanted to take me to Taksim, 'it is my duty to take care of you - as you are alone.' It is amazing how someone can find any manner of way to touch you either on the shoulder, hand or arm. Ergh! I think he was an annoying Turkish man 'in training' as I heard him talking to another woman in the group and I figured out that he was assuring her that he had tried all the usual tricks of telling me that he could take me to the cheap places in Taksim.

My brush off was not heeded as he continued to talk to me and stand too close for comfort. In the end I forced my company on some other poor guy who was walking in our group. What luck he was an Aussie from Melbourne who used to be a Contiki guide! Thank you Mark!

The rest of the tour through the harem was even better now free of my leech. In addition to his saving me, over lunch I got all the insider goss from Mark about what it's like for a Contiki tour guide - what really goes on behind the scenes.

Back on the tram I went as Mark jumped back on his double-decker hop on hop off bus of Istanbul.

As I had stupidly told the leech that I was planning to go to the Archaeology Museum this afternoon I changed my plans. What is a girl going to do when she has time to kill in Istanbul? Hmm...might need a Magnum Fistik to think about that.

Shopping? Of course! Inspired idea. Now the trick is to go shopping to use up the remaining Turkish Lira without letting the shopping owners know you are just trying to spend your money. I had some great conversations actually. Gave me faith in the Turkish men again After a little retail therapy I headed back to the Blue Mosque. I sat in the park between the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya as the afternoon turned to evening.

It was getting pretty hot in the sun so I moved to a shady spot next to a man of about 50. What are the odds of sitting next to a German who plays the didgeridoo? He had never been to Australia but he was so excited to be sitting next to an Australian girl. So we spoke about circular breathing (like I know anything about it!) under the watchful eye of his wife.

Istanbul is really such a beautiful city. It has everything. I can even appreciate the call to prayer which is hauntingly drifting through the night as I sit typing away on the terrace looking over the city. That is until the resident DJ adds a little Shakira. Not quite the same feel but...well, Istanbul is a mixing of the old with the new so perhaps it is appropriate.

Tonight I had dinner at my favourite restaurant in Istanbul. Doy Doy. They looked after me as a single gal. They even knew to give me Turkish tea rather than apple tea. I find that if you try to speak Turkish (even if you are bad it) and do it with a genuine smile then you win them over pretty easily. Then they win me over. It's a win win situation.

Being a single traveller has its challenges but I've met some great people that I would not have met otherwise. Even at dinner tonight I chatted to two English women who are here for a week and then two Kiwi's joined me for dinner. The guys at my hostel have been great too. The beds may be levelly challenged and the breakfast a bit hit and miss and I may even be kept awake by the sounds of cat fights and the boys chatting out the front of the hostel. But it's been great. They have looked after me and made me feel at home which is really what it's all about.

Okay, now the music has moved onto some hard core rapping...what will come next DJ? Wait for it...I think this one is for me...a little Kylie! On a night like this...

Tram, palace, kebab and fistik magnum...just another day remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Recipe for adventure

2009-06-01T01:08:51Z

Interesting start to the day. I woke up late which my body very much appreciated. What it didn't appreciate was me falling out of bed! Luckily my humour was in check. I had swapped beds thinking that perhaps Rachel's now vacated bed was more level. Perhaps it's just a sign that I'm almost ready to go home to my double bed.

After a stodgy breakfast I headed out into the sunny day feeling confident of where I was going - I'm practically a local after all...well maybe not.

I ended up on the opposite side of Sultanehmet. Well, I'm always up for a walk. I reached into my back for my map and crushed my stolen boiled egg from breakfast. Thank goodness for good humour! I enjoyed a brisk walk along the water in the direct sunlight. I then did a bit of a zig zag so I could walk through my favourite part of Istanbul. Gulhane Park. Pieta would so love it there. It's incredibly green - the type of green we just don't see in Melbourne anymore. My photos don't do it justice.

It's funny the things that will suddenly make you think of home. Walking through the park someone started up a lawn mower.

Travelling discovery: Getting lost when you are on your own is not nearly as funny as when you are with someone else.

Recipe for adventure: Take one single female traveller with very little Turkish, no sense of direction and a habit of going with the flow. Mix that with an out of the way tourist attraction, a local bus and a pathetic map.

I finally got on a bus which had a different number to what I was expecting but was assured it would get me to Kariye Museum. Being told when to get off is great...but with no signs it doesn't do much. Not being afraid of a bit of a walk I headed off and over shot the museum by about half a km. Finally I would stop every two streets asking 'Merhaba, Kariye Museum?' With this method I got to see a lot of back streets and then finally the museum. By this stage I was thinking this better be good!

It was. I could easily say it is my favourite museum in Istanbul. The frescoes are incredible and the stories they tell are so vivid. I put a serious dent in my remaining photos on my memory card. The detail and the stories told in these works of art are awe inspiring. I did however find my self wishing they had some sort of contraption that could wheel you around on your back. I walked through twice and was equally impressed the second time even thought my neck was aching by the time I walked out to enjoy a boring toasted cheese sandwich.

After lunch the fun began again. My lack of direction really came in to play this time. I did find my way back to the main street and even found the right bus with the right numbers. I relaxed on the bus and tuned out...until...I didn't recognise anything. I wandered up to the front of the bus through crowds of Turkish men to speak to the guy who sells the tickets. 'Eminonu?' I asked hopefully. His shocked expression confirmed my fears. He was concerned and pointed to the back of the bus. They stopped the bus for me and he gestured for me to catch a bus from the other side of the road. Problem was, I was in the burbs of Istanbul and had no idea what a bus stop looked like.

I walked in the direction he had pointed me and walked and walked. I began to wonder how long it would take me to get Sultanehmet on foot when a bus hovered near me in traffic. I figured it was at least going in the right direction and I was already out of my depth. As they had the door open on the overcrowded bus in order to get air into the bus I took a gamble and jumped onto the moving bus. I ignored the surprised looks of the others on the bus, paid my fair and hoped for the best.

We drove through what must be the wedding dress district. I'm talking about some pretty impressive dresses of all colours and styles, all manner of fluffy and explosive designs. All was going well until I realised that I could see the Blue Mosque in the distance but we were going the wrong direction! So in keeping with the theme of the day I jumped off a moving bus. With the general direction in mind I walked and walked. First through the hardware district where they were selling chainsaws on the side of the road. Then I moved into the boat tackle district until I finally found the water and then with a sigh of relief I saw tourists with cameras! I had finally found touristville again.

Surely that adventure deserves a Fistik Magnum! I had a lovely chat to an English woman who has been living in Istanbul for a year and knew even less Turkish than me then wandered back (ON FOOT) to Gulhane Park for a little R&R before heading back to the hostel via the cooking class I wanted to book into. All booked out

Back at the hostel - here I am. Sitting in the rooftop bar on the free internet listening to some pretty eclectic music, enjoying an Efes and the view of the Bospherous as the sun descends on another full day in Istanbul.

I've only got 1 1/2 days before I have to fly back home. Sigh...how can I go back to the daily grind again? I'm sure it will happen way to quickly. For now I'm enjoying the feeling of another adventure...

Recipe for adventure remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Best baklava and another museum in Istanbul

2009-06-01T01:11:55Z

For someone who isn't really into really sweet things I've really taken to the baklava here. That is, the baklava sold just over the Galata Bridge in a place called Karakoy Gulluglu. Rachel wanted to buy some to take back to London and I was more than happy to sample some more. The chocolate baklava was pretty spectacular. I'm now sold on the idea of buying some before I go and hoping that I can get it through Australian customs. I can just see myself sitting at customs eating the baklava rather than allowing them to throw it away. But they vacuum pack it an everything so they better let me through!

So there we were at 10am eating baklava - Alicia would be proud of me!

Today we headed to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts. I think it is one of my favourite places in Istanbul. I know it was probably influenced by the fact that there were very few tourists in there but the exhibition was beautiful. Lots of carpets which I don't think I would have really appreciated if I hadn't gone to the talk in Cappadocia. There were also books which I always have a soft spot for.

After such a cultural experience we decided it was appropriate to have a fistik Magnum. Why not? It was Rachel's last day. Back at the hotel Rachel managed to get everything in her bags and we said goodbye. So sad to say goodbye to my new friend but I'm sure we will meet again. I did manage to get a photo of her dropping her water bottle which was a daily occurance throughout our travel together.

An afternoon spent on the internet (first time since Konya) had me discovering that my obsession with Fistik Magnums has got me top listing in a google search!

Tonight I met up again with Pam and Harry from Melbourne for dinner. So amazing to come all the way to Turkey to meet two people who live only suburbs away from me and know so many people I know through St Aidans. We have decided to meet up in Sydney road for some Turkish coffee when we get back to Melbourne.

An early night for me...

Best baklava and another museum in Istanbul remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Istanbul shopping 'til you drop

2009-06-01T01:14:46Z

Today was all about shopping. It was Rachel's last full day in Istanbul and she had a list of things to buy. Not relishing going to the bazaars by myself I decided to tag along.

I think the trick with shopping in Istanbul is to not try and get the best price because you honestly have no idea what that is. The idea is to just get YOUR best price. Whatever you are willing to spend. That way you don't get upset when you realise that you paid double what someone else was willing to give you.

I, for instance had no intention on buying ceramics...well I bought some. I had been interested in a lamp but never intended in buying one...I did. Oh and the guy who sold us the lamps, he asked if we were sisters (we look nothing alike). And he assured us that all Australian girls have blue eyes 'I've seen it on facebook'. The authority on what Australians look like obviously!

Rachel and I got thoroughly lost more than once and I managed to purchase more scarves - honestly, you can't have too many! I'm going back to an Aussie winter afterall. Hey, Rachel bought a hand sewing machine! Something I'm sure I've seen in the Innovations catalogue. They started at one for 25TYL and ended up offering 2 for 15TYL. She bought one for 10TYL.

We finally found the spice bazaar and bought some Turkish delight to take home. Vacuum packed an all!

Oh should I share some of the lines? Yes.

'Oh spice girls!'
'You dropped something. My heart'
'Hello my darling'
'Can I ask you something small?'
'Just one moment, your father must be a jeweller'
'This is a good place to spend you money'
'You from Japan?'
'I guess, Australian? Holland? American? etc.'
'You like Turkish boy?'

and so they go on.

Where was I? Oh, we were shopping and very very tired and hungry. We finally found our way back to somewhere we recognised and walked into one of the really touristy restaurants to have a gozleme. Yes we were tired but this restaurant was the worse yet.

Firstly, the prices were outrageous - but we expected that on the main strip. Then when the food arrived it was pretty pathetic. It wasn't spinach it was silverbeet. I don't like silverbeet. The cheese was pretty hard to find and poor Rachel ended up with literally just hot sausage. They hadn't cut it properly so Rachel asked for a knife. They refused to give it to her because 'you eat with your hands'. Then the music started. Oh, the music! Soooo loud! Four instruments and not what we wanted to listen to for our break from the crowds. But it gets worse! I asked for our bill just as the band stood up. They evaded us like they didn't understand what I had asked for. Then I realised what was happening and my patience disappeared. Especially when the band stood right in front of us playing a whole song and gesturing for us to give them 5TYL. I shook my head. Then they played another song!!!! The bill arrived and I saw they had already included a tip in the cost so I shook my head again to the tambourine man and happily received a dirty look before they moved onto the next poor table.

Back to our room for some quiet and for Rachel to try the impressive effort of fitting everything she bought into her small pack. Did I mention she bought a carpet in Cappadocia?

Out again for dinner we found a little place with a very very attentive waiter called Genge (however you spell it). Again for some reason the attention was on me. The young Genge kept telling us jokes but had to tell us he was being funny because we couldn't understand what he said. It was very amusing. But the best part...

...as seems to be tradition we were given complimentary tea at the end of the meal. And I mean apple tea (aka tourist tea). I really can't stomach it any more. It's just too sweet. So when it came out and it wasn't just a small glass but basically a mug of it I was distraught. I didn't think I could drink it and would it be rude not to drink it? Clearly my brain was in fine form as I had an inspired idea. When Genge wasn't looking I would just spoon it into the iced tea can I had had earlier. So little by little I spooned the very sweet drink into the can. That is until I realised that it was really heating up the can. Genge came back to the table flirting and talking (really it took no input from us to keep the conversation going) and then it happened. He reached across and cleared the table. When he picked up the can his face registered confusion but he kept talking. We pretended, with difficulty, that nothing was amiss but his confusion continued until finally he stopped his flow of words and exclaimed that the can was hot. How did it get hot. I admitted that it was me. Rachel pipped in to say that it was too hot and I was using the can to cool it down. How that would work I don't know but he seemed to accept it and even praised me for being a clever Australian.

Leaving the restaurant was hard work as he pretended not to understand what 'can I have the bill' meant but eventually he let us go with a hand shake and a kiss on both cheeks. Such a bold boy for 18 years of age! And the end of a day that was rich with laughter!

Istanbul shopping 'til you drop remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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To the islands we go

2009-06-01T01:21:14Z

Being in a hostel that has very thin walls, it was unlikely I would sleep through the call to prayer. Even still, I slept like a log and rolled the same in my slanting bed. We (Rachel and I) climbed three flights of stairs to our breakfast which was not the most flash but the view? First class! Rachel was brave enough to try one of the fluorescent coloured granules which we think were sweet tea. The choices? Fluro yellow, orange or pink. I stuck with the less than impressive Nescafe. I swear if I come back craving nescafe I'm going to sue Turkey!

From our hostel we walked to the tram which took us to Kadikoy for a quick dash onto the ferry that was just leaving. Ahhh....Princes' Islands here we come.

The first island we jumped off at was Heybeliad. We walked the long (and mostly uphill) way to the Haghia Triada Monastery...it was closed so we sat amongst the pine trees where I cracked open my stolen boiled egg from breakfast. After 45 minutes we headed back to Haghia Triada only to work out (with sign language) that it wasn't open to the public anyway. Hmmm...that's a long hike to look through a fence. But it made me feel better about the baklava I ate the night before.

Oh I forgot to mention that part of the attraction for the islands is that it really only has two forms of transport. Bike and fayton (horse drawn carriage). Now for those of you who know of my unfortunate history on transport with two wheels - imagine my reluctance when it was mostly uphill, on hired bikes of dubious stability and on uneven cobbled stones. Now I'm happy to laugh at myself but that would have just gone beyond funny. So the other option fayton? Well, the health of these horses were varied and some where down right distressing. And seeing these oblivious tourists being pulled up steep hills by horses that were more skeletal than meat...well it was nauseating (whichever way you spell it!).

So on foot we were and on the way down we decided to do some old fashioned Aussie bush bashing. Generally in Turkey I've been so impressed with how clean it is. Not so in the bush bashing expedition. There was rubbish everywhere and poor Rachel had an unfortunate encounter with an atrophied very much dead cat. She was a little jumpy after that - understandably.

The cat and rubbish aside the walk was beautiful with butterflies flittering everywhere and loads of wild flowers. Have I mentioned how glad I am that I came here at this time of the year? After a little worrying moment when we thought we had gone way off track we found the road and even a place to squeeze through the barbed wire to get to it.

Now such a trip surely deserves a Fistik Magnum! Well we thought so. Back in the town we enjoyed our Magnum as Rachel told me again of her friend who works in the department of Magnums and how she was going to insist she bring it out in Australia. I'm not so sure though...I'm not sure a diet of Fistik Magnum would be so good for me. I'm averaging one a day here!

A quick lunch at one of the many restaurants on the water we then jumped back on the ferry to the next Island Buyukada. I can't put the accents on the letters with this computer but it is pronounced booyookada. So I had that annoying song in my head - barakuda. Actually that has been an strange development whilst I've been travelling. I seem to be experiencing things in song! Someone says a line and I get the corresponding song in my head.

Back to Buyukada. Walking was the name of the game on this island too. This time we were walking passed houses that looked like they would be better situated in the deep south of America. Apparently this is a holiday destination for rich Istanbul residents - sort of like Portsea in Melbourne.

Still more skeletal horses ran passed us looking like they belonged more in some wes craven animation than in Turkey. But we still managed to enjoy the beautiful walk through pine trees. Even when the hill got ridiculously steep. Rachel compared me to a boot camp instructor. We trudged up this hill passed trees with all sorts of things tied to them. At first glance they may look like someone trying a whole lot of rubbish onto the trees since most of it was toilet paper, water bottle wrappers and random string. But in actual fact each of them represented prayers. We were making our slow and arduous journey to the top where the monastery of St George was situated. Hence the prayers. We have been told that most of the prayers are of couples praying for the gift of a child. Suddenly the many ties of toilet paper became beautiful dreams of thousands of couples.

Still...our journey continued. When we finally reached the top it took us probably ten minutes before we could even bring ourselves to focus on anything but catching our breath and falling into a chair. Once that passed we saw that the climb was truly worth it. The vista was magnificent. And this monastery you could enter!

But the treat for us was sitting at the top of this climb enjoying an Efes in the shade. Well earned and very well appreciated.

Our walk back was considerably less tiresome. We watched (or tried not to) the numerous faytons galloping past us up the hill, obviously for a wedding.

Oh and look at that - we got back into the town with enough time to enjoy another ice cream. But not a Magnum. Boysenberry, lemon and pistachio. Sigh....I watched a family playing with their two dogs and waited for our ferry to arrive.

We jumped on and relaxed into our seat as we took off...

...um, where are we? Did we get on the right ferry? We seem to have been on here a long while. I'm sure it didn't take us over an hour to get to the islands. Don't we need to be over there?

Ahh the joys of travelling. It took us 2 hours to get back to Kadikoy! (it took us about 20 minutes to get to the islands)

Two hours later we did arrive at the port we first left - obviously just by the scenic route. What a big day. We found a lovely restaurant which was written up in the Lonely Planet. Though we were a little concerned about it being on the 6th floor after doing so much climbing but they had a lift!

I had the speciality which looked like sausage rolls but tasted so much better. We had a single musician and a stunning view - what more could you ask for?

To the islands we go remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Waking up in Istanbul

2009-06-01T01:23:25Z

See the itinerary of this trip, and details about each destination.

Did I say wake up call?

Well, no wake up call but there is nothing like a panic 15 minutes from waking to having to get off a train. Almost as effective as a cup of coffee! Poor Alya had 5 minutes. Apparently most people had been awake most of the night with all the stopping of the train and the noisy men and women throughout the night. I slept like a baby

A quick ferry ride with a Turkish tea in hand got us to the shores of Istanbul where we walked the remaining 15 minutes to our end hotel where we had a room to dump our stuff. Breakfast at another hotel then we all headed out for the morning. I took Alia and Mari to the park I discovered my first day in Istanbul. It was to be a peaceful chance to chill out in the beautiful setting of green grass and tulips. Well all the tulips have gone! And as for the peaceful rest...

...we were swarmed by children. It is Museum week in Turkey where all museums are free for Turkish people. That means lots of school groups. We must have had a whole school surrounding us. It is funny trying to have a conversation in two different languages...it is even funnier with kids. Apparently my hair was rather a treat for them and by the end of the...experience they were poking it, touching it and pulling it. I got pinched on the cheek by one girl which I later learned meant she thought I was very sweet. There was a lot of 'Dom tek tek' which is the Turkey entry into Eurovision. There was many questions but strangely they were the same questions. What is your name, what is your name, what is your name, how old are you? What is your name? etc. etc.

Finally their English teacher appeared and did some translation. I looked like their music teacher from last year. One boy seemed to think I should be with him and another girl sat closely beside me and held my hand. All three of us were feeling very overwhelmed by the time their other teachers came to shoo them away. Then there was a lot of 'I love you' and 'bye' and kisses on the cheek.

After that I had to go try the fortune teller. Not your average fortune teller either. A chicken. Yep, I paid 3 TYL (bargained down of course) for a chicken to pull out my fortune. Then I got a photo taken with a bunny rabbit who had poop on his paws.

After this excitement Rachel and I headed to our hostel right near the blue mosque. We stumbled across an art gallery with some gorgeous art and a very character rich artist within. I don't know how he took it that I liked his wife's art more than his.

Dinner was with Mari, Lindsay, Alia, Yusuf, Pam, Harry and Rachel. A rather swish restaurant which made me glad Rachel and I had had a late lunch so we just had soup and shared a mixed meze. I had also brought along my treat of a drink I bought at lunch. It's all experience! Fermented purple carrot with chilli. Yes, it was pretty rank. It tasted like juiced pickled cabbage with chilli in it. Had to be done - even though the waiter looked at me when I ordered it and said - 'I do not recommend for you'.

After dinner we jumped on a tram to the other side of the Galata Bridge for the best baklava I've ever had. Then back to say goodbye to everyone as we all went our separate ways. The tour was well and truly over

But Istanbul had so much more to show me...

Waking up in Istanbul remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Cappadocia secrets and more bus travel

2009-06-01T01:29:21Z

Another early morning - woken by the morning prayer at about 4.20am. I'm so going to miss that alarm...well, maybe not! I did enjoy the addition of the dog calls though

My first point of call after a quick shower was to head off to find coffee again. Espresso is a rare treat around Turkey and one I wasn't going to miss whilst I knew where to get it. Back at our caves we had to have all our stuff ready to go before we headed with our new local guide Mehmet who took us to one of the underground cities. Now, this is not an exaggeration...it was literally a city. We walked down five levels! They had an entire civilisation down there for years and with over five thousand people. I was again amazed as Mehmet talked at how advanced the civilisation was. What happened to that knowledge? I didn't really get any photos down there because there really just wasn't any point. So I contended myself with just walking around the schools, the stables, the churches, the sleeping quarters, hoping that the stone doors didn't close on us.

Back on the surface again the sun was well and truly making itself known. I can't imagine why anyone would want to travel through Turkey in summer. It was so hot. It felt about 40 degrees though I'm sure it was just felt that way because it was mostly stone, rock and sand around us. Though it was also surprisingly green too.

Back in Goreme we had lunch - yep gozleme again! - then Rachel, Sally, David and I joined another intrepid group for a Carpet talk. I have to say I'm really glad I went. Now, I didn't buy a capret but I can understand why people would want to. They are even more beautiful when you understand them a bit better. It helps to be told about them by someone who is passionately obsessed by them.

But the fun was to be over soon. It wasn't long before we were all back at our caves to jump on a bus to Ankara.

What can I tell you about my travel there. Aside from the stunning scenery (Turkey certainly doesn't disappoint there!) it was just travel. For the first time we had clouds and rain. Actually I lie. At lunch we had a mini dust storm (I may be exaggerating a little) which blistered its way through the middle of town then just stopped. But on the road it was stormy and grey which just made the green that more vibrant. It took me a while before I realised that the green hills I was staring at looked like the Windows desktop background. You know that ridiculously green hill that you think would never been seen in the flesh, so to speak? Well, I've seen it now!

Ankara is...well...not my favourite place in Turkey. It was noisy, busy, ugly and chaotic. At the train station we had dinner with canned vegies and packet mash potato. But we did have live music. I taught the girls gin rummy with my new Turkey playing cards. We continued playing once we got on the train until we were all a little delirious with tiredness - especially me. You know when everything becomes funny? And I think I'm pretty funny at the best of times so I was just hilarious that night...or so I thought. But as Rachel said. Happy is he (she) who can laugh at himself for he will always be amused. That's me to a tea!

Tired as I was I had no problem falling asleep on the train...nor staying asleep until our wake up call - hmmm...wake up call?

Cappadocia secrets and more bus travel remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Flying high and walking low in Cappadocia

2009-06-01T01:41:18Z

So a morning that begins at 4am is never going to be pleasant. But it helps to be awake to hear the call to prayer accompanied by howling dogs. It was such beautiful morning. I love being somewhere when it is quiet because everyone is asleep. I feel like the only person on this strange planet of Cappadocia. I sat outside looking over the few lights that lit up the surreal landscape.

It wasn't long before I was picked up with Sally and David to be taken into the centre of town where there definitely wasn't sleeping people. Instead there was a multitude of half awake people from all over the world here to experience the treasure of a balloon ride at sunrise over Cappadocia.

We were driven about 20 minutes out of town to a wild flower filled field where they gave us a safety talk in both English and French and then as our breath clouded before us we got to watch these limp bags be filled with air to be transformed into magnificent balloons. There were 12 to a basket all with window seats.

The balloon ride was beautiful. We lifted above the other 80 balloons out that morning then drifted below through the landscape that so fascinated me. We travelled for about 2 hours and to be honest as wonderful as it was...I think I could have done the hour long one for 120TYL cheaper. But what an experience. Once we landed - narrowly missing a Turkish prison! - we were treated to champagne and cherry juice and a slice of chocolate cake. None of this appealed to me so instead I enjoyed the warmth of the sun.

Back in town I decided to walk back to the hotel knowing that when the sun had reached its zenith I wouldn't find the walk as pleasant. I passed some dyed wool drying in the morning sun. Did I mention I'm taking photos? Well, I might have a bit of a task on my hands when I get back to cull them all! But I promise my friends I won't make you sit through all of them.

Back at the hotel I had just enough time to find an espresso coffee and a banana for breakfast before we were off again. On foot we walked to the Rose Valley. Ali was our leader this time and we hiked through the landscape I had floated over just an hour before. The hike was one of my favourite things on this trip. Though there are so many favourites. Learning about the history of the landscape, discovering hidden churches, learning about the uses of pigeon droppings! It's all fascinating. I just loved being active too. It did get mighty hot as the sun climbed higher and higher and soon enough on our way out of the valley my enthusiasm was starting to waiver. That and my lack of sleep combined made a powerful drug for me.

We got back to Goreme centre in time for lunch which I ordered but then was too tired to eat. I don't think I've ever been so close to falling asleep in my food. Especially when we were sitting on cushions. So I stumbled back to my cave and passed out for an hour...hardly enough but all I was going to get.

Poor Jeanne had her first Hamam experience (Turkish Bath) when they were doing them co-gender! Now that is a Turkish experience for you when you are a shy woman with three men!

For dinner we headed out to a restaurant where we sat on little seats that were more like little rocking horses without the rocking. Surprisingly comfortable actually - until you tried to get up! I was still pretty tired so I just had soup whilst everyone else tried the testi kebab. A casserole type thing cooked in a ceramic pot that was cracked open in order to get the delicious food out.

I may have been tired but I wasn't going to miss out on dessert. We walked to the place we had lunch and I shared a gozleme (kind of like roti bread) filled with chocolate and banana. Now that is an experience everyone should have!!!!!!

Back at the hotel we enjoyed a small glass of sweet tangerine wine before I headed off to bed to sleep like a log. Long long day.

Flying high and walking low in Cappadocia remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Konya to Cappadocia - the epic journey begins

2009-06-01T01:45:11Z

When I last left you I was in Konya. So much has been seen and experienced since then! Well, not in Konya. After leaving the internet desk with the guy smoking next to me I headed out with Yusuf (our tour guide) in search of coffee. The real stuff not the seemingly favoured nescafe that is available everywhere. Unfortunately no coffee was to be found but we ended in a little cafe of a Turkish style with people smoking the waterpipe - I think it was apple flavoured as I'm getting a bit of a nose for it now. We had just enough time to down a glass of Turkish tea before having to head back to the hotel for our epic journey to Cappadocia.

Let me start off by saying that the total time between Konya and Cappadocia was ELEVEN hours. It felt like it too. I was perched on the edge of a seat at the front of the bus for most of the way. You would think that being at the front would mean I had a better veiw of the scenery... well I thought I would. Not so. The wide vista was marred by the countless bug corpses splattered all over the glass. Well, I guess they were Turkish bugs so at least I was still seeing all things Turkey!

Bugs aside the scenery was so beautiful. This really is the best time to come to Turkey with all the wild flowers out. Fields filled with yellow, purple and pink flowers. The mountains in the background highlighted by snow completed the vista for me. But then the scenery would change over and over again. From open fields of green so green it didn't look real, to craggy rocks or smooth rocks, fields of dancing green wheat (or something like it). We passed gypsies and goats, shepherds with their sheep, horse and carts, women working their land and men on their tractors through the olive groves.

But arrival in Cappadocia was the sight that took the cake for me. Honestly words are hard to find to describe the sight. As I still haven't been able to add my photos please do a google search for Cappadocia. You will then understand why I can't describe this other worldly landscape.

We were landed in the centre of Goreme where we cooked in the hot hot sun until a beat up station-wagon arrived to take our luggage to our accommodation. We were not to stay in a hotel but in caves! Now I did say our luggage was being transported to our accommodation but not us. So we walked through the cave dwellings of Goreme and climbed a rather steep hill to get to our sensational abode for the next two nights.

Sleeping in a cave meant cooler environment which was good and a padlock for security. The dogs here were huge! I mean the size of a Saint Bernard but so much cuter. And they were everywhere. I learnt later why I loved them even more...I will explain when I get to the morning prayers at 4am!!!

After we had all excitedly check out each others rooms we headed into town where we had a short orientation (it really wasn't that big) and then Sally, David and I headed off to the Hot Air Balloon office. I'm such a sucker! I was going to go for the 1 hour trip but the woman was such a good saleperson that I ended up saying to myself...'how many times do I get the chance to do this?' So after forking out 490TYL I need a drink - a real one! I found Lindsay, Rachel, Mari and Alia and ordered a iced coffee (yes, real coffee) with no ice, no sugar and only a little milk (su). Yes, I'm strange enough that he remembered me again the next morning when I went to order the same again.

That night was to be a very special treat as we all climbed into a minibus to be taken out of the touristy Goreme to be welcomed into the home of a local family for dinner. We got to see where they make their wine and then sit down as the sun set for a home cooked meal. The little boy (about four years old) took a little shine to me and gave me a flower. The young girl (about nine) took a shine to Lindsay and sat next to her all night. The food was lovely especially the herb and tomato soup. Of course at the end we were offered tea. I'm a little over the apple tea (or tourist tea as it is really called). Not being much of a sweetened drink drinker I wasn't too keen on it to begin with but now...I groan when it comes out with an expectant smile from a friendly Turk.

Dinner ended too soon for me but we had to head back to our hotel and I had a very early morning ahead of me. 4.55am was when I was to be picked up for my balloon ride.

Konya to Cappadocia - the epic journey begins remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Üçağiz to Konya - that would be 11 hours!

2009-06-01T01:47:13Z

Breakfast was a very peaceful affair this morning. Even with the terrible tea. I didn't know tea could taste that bad! The water was still and the boats with all their colours reflected in the water made it the perfect opportunity for photos. Like I need incentive to pull out my camera! But I did take a few shots that I think mum might even think worthy of painting.

Honestly the rest of the day was travel, travel, bus, travel, travel, lunch, travel, travel. We were travelling all up 11 hours! That is insane!!!!!

typical food provided on any long bus ride
Anyway. The scenery was really quite spectacular. It changes so quickly here. We got stopped by the army at one stage which has happened before. Apparently they check all the male identification to be sure that they have all done their compulsory army training. from ages 19 to 21. Two years. If they haven't...well, it's not good! I'm loving Turkey but there are things that really sadden me here. Whenever I travel and wherever I travel I realise how incredibly lucky we are in Australia. The freedoms we have and what a privileged upbringing I've had.

Konya is a big city and to be honest doesn't really do much for me. That said, I've not really seen much of it. I'm kind of exhausted and I want to have all my energy for Cappadocia which we drive to tonight. Another 6 hours!!!! But I'm seriously considering buying a pillow so I can get a decent chance of a snooze on the bus. Especially after being up until 3.30am.

Dinner last night was Lamb Kabapi, Turkish tea and I tried a bit of Pam and Harry's baklava and rice pudding. İ also tried some sort of sugar thing (just for something different) which was like rose water flavoured compacted icing sugar...not my cup of tea!

I've now been sitting on the computer all morning so I better get out there in the sunshine and see something in Konya! Might even find some karveh!

Hope all of you are well and appropriately jealous of my travels. Sorry I haven't been able to get photos up on my blog but I hope to change that once I'm back in Istanbul.

Love to you all

Bella xx

Hoşçakal!

Üçağiz to Konya - that would be 11 hours! remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Turquoise Coast and return to Öçağiz for Eurovision

2009-06-01T01:51:35Z

This is an extract direct from my journal...

It doesn't get much better than this. This morning it feels like the good life. All that is wanting is a hot shower. But as that is not going to happen I push that desire aside to full enjoy this. I woke up in the wee hours of the morning to be bathed in moonlight. The moon had only just risen and its glow turned the water liquid sliver. The perfect photo opportunity. My camera was right beside me but I just couldn't quite get myself out of the bed as it was quite...FREEZING!

I was the first to get up and I relished the solitude it afforded me. Solitude to fully enjoy the gentle dawning of a new day. The boat had a slight rock, enough to complete the magic. I wrote a postcard to Willoe - the perfect time to do it as she loves sunrises so much (I seem to remember her dragging me out of a bed a few times to watch them). I could sit here for hours just watching nature reveal herself...oh but I hear the sounds of Turkish tea downstairs!.

Honestly, it would be so easy to just stare at the water for hours and not get bored. Well luckily (or not) I didn't have the chance to disprove that theory as we had a breakfast fit for a sultan then headed off to another cove.

Off the boat to explore yet more ruins and scramble over rocks and startle (and be startled) by a goat and her kid. We were walking for probably an hour or two and it was hard work in the sun that had well and truly climbed to it's zenith and was doing it's best to beat us into submission. But it felt great to do something strenuous.

Back on the boat we sailed to another fishing village called Simena to pick up lunch then sailed pasted ancient Simena which is well and truly under water now. It's known as the sunken village. Well, it was pretty sunken so that you couldn't really see anything. Before lunch I was taught a Turkish game called Yuvak. It is interesting being taught a game by three men talking in Turkish most of the time. It sort of looks like scrabble but with numbered tablets. But that's where the similarity with scrabble ends. Then it is more compared with gin rummy. Once I grasped the rules of the game (which requires a little too maths for my tastes) I of course had to win. And, of course, I did!

After lunch it seemed appropriate to have a little nap on the roof of the boat until we arrived at back at the fishing village Simena. I had all intentions of staying on the boat until I heard the magic words...no the other one...ice-cream! Famed as being the best ice-cream in Turkey. Hazelnut and banana. Not the best I've tasted but I'm glad I took the time to visit the village as I got some fantastic photos.

Back on the boat we headed back to the fishing village of Öçağiz which is where we were to stay. The most exciting part about that was that it had the most spectacular hot shower!

Dinner was kalamari and the ultimate of Turkish experiences was sitting in the restaurant watching Eurovision! Wow, Greece had some impressive popping action by a Ricki Martin look-alike, Germany had some seriously psychedelic sparkly pants and Romania (I think) had a very tragically tortured woman. Turkey came fourth!

Eurovision will never be the same for me again!

Turquoise Coast and return to Öçağiz for Eurovision remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Kayaköy to Kaş to Öçağiz to boat

2009-06-04T08:56:06Z

This morning I swear the roosters were camped outside my bedroom. But I would have woken to the morning prayers anyway and to be honest - I think I prefer the roosters.

I welcomed the cold shower again knowing karveh was a long time coming. Unless I wanted to subject myself to nescafe and creamer again. A panic pack was undertaken to be standing ready for the bus at 8am again. A short 30 minute trip to the bus station to find a mediocre breakfast. A long bus ride got us to Kaş where Rachel, Jean and I were excited to see the words espresso, cappuccino, latte. Our excitement only slightly wavered when we watched the woman holding a phone to her ear as she pointed at the coffee machine looking confused (her not the machine). I was so tempted to jump up and offer to make it myself. Unfortunately I don't know how to explain that in Turkish so I just waited for my very very very milky cappuccino.

A toasted cheese sandwich for lunch and we were back on the bus on our way to the small fishing village of Öçağiz where we jumped on our boat - our home for the next two days. In a nutshell the two days on the boat were çok güzel! (very beautiful).

We weren't out on the water for long before we anchored in a little alcove and we all jumped into the spectacular turquoise water. It really is that colour. And so incredibly clear you don't need to stick you head into the water to see the fish.

After a leisurely swim we dried out in the hot sun and then enjoyed some Turkish tea and biscuits. It's hot in the sun but it is perfect in the shade. A gentle breeze sort of glides over your skin and the sound of the lapping water on the boat is so peaceful. Even the sound of the flapping Turkish flag worked in perfect harmony with it all.

We travelled on to a point where we were going to anchor for dinner. I got a chance to go ashore on some pretty spiky rocks that reminded me of Blairgowrie at home. I fclimbed to a high rock where I could get some great photos of the boat and also of the sun as it began to sink behind the islands.

Back on the boat the rest of the group tried their hand at some fishing with some ingenious fishing implements of fishing wire and an empty water bottle. The bait? Chicken! Two small fish were caught but luckily we were not reliant on that for dinner. The fish bait apparently worked for us too.

Once the sun had gone to bed Yusuf started a bit of a singing circle. All sorts of songs came out of the woodwork. Waltzing Matilda anyone?

It wasn't long before we were all heading off to bed under the stars. Now that is not an experience you get every day. I must confess the bed was not the most comfortable but the blankets were heavy and I finally found use for my polar fleece! Yep, I brought a polar fleece to Turkey when we have been averaging temperatures of about 28 degrees!

Stars, water and the promise of another day on the water!

Kayaköy to Kaş to Öçağiz to boat remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Hiking the Lycian trail and paragliding in Ölüdeniz

2009-06-01T02:14:14Z

I think the title of this next entry says it all!

'Günaydin' say several roosters this morning. But I was already awake in the freezing cold room. More like an extended bathroom. Which I wouldn't have minded if the bathroom provided me with hot water. But in keeping with the theme of experiencing new things I had a cold shower pretty much pressed up against the wall. How is it that a shower head that points directly at the wall can get water EVERYWHERE except on the person wanting to rinse off the soap?

I kept telling myself that this was as good (almost) as a strong coffee in the morning. I'm not quite acclimatised to the idea of nescafe in the morning. Each time we reach a new destination I hopefully ask them 'karveh lütfen?' The answer is always the same...an enthusiastic nod and smile followed by the disappointing word...'nescafe'.

Anyway, enough about my coffee sob story. Today we took the very eerily spectacular walk through the ghost village in Kayoköy accompanied by the two dogs from our hotel. The ghost village is just over 2000 deserted houses, churches and roads during World War I. Walking through the streets of this village it easy to understand why they called it the ghost village. A beautiful tapestry of ruins bathed in gorgeous sunshine and threaded with delicate flowers has the magical effect of tranquillity. Another opportunity to snap, snap, snap.

We climbed a hill where I got a photo of a two tailed dragonfly! We continued on through forest, over rocks, down hills, up hills, and on we went for about 2 hours. I loved it. For those interested (which I'm sure it may be only two of you) my new shoes have been well worn and most importantly have not given me any issues at all. The hike lead us to stunning views of the aptly named Turquoise coast that promised us a prize swim at the end.

By the time we got to Ölüdeniz however, I was way too tired to find a dressing room and change into my bathers. Instead I chilled out with a soda water and a bit of relief from the hot sun. We did try to commander an umbrella on the beach but it cost 16.50 TYL! For shade! Ölüdeniz is very touristy as I discovered as I went in search of a new pair of sunnies to replace the ones I lost. Dolce & Cabana - Genuine Fake that is.

We had quite a bit of time to spend here so what better time spendage than booking myself in to do paragliding? I didn't require much convincing as I watched person after person glide onto the beach with huge grins on their faces.

A 45 minute truck drive took us (Rachel, Brian, Jean and I) up and up and up a winding road where we passed a bunch of horses, some goats, a few dogs and a cat or two. To be honest, the ride up was proving to be the most terrifying part and yet I waiting for the nerves to kick in. Waited and waited. The guys who did this jump over and over again were showing off a little on the bus and I watched carefully those stuffing corn chips into their mouths hoping that I wouldn't get that as my olfactory sensory trigger for this memory of this experience.

Once up the top I put on the very large nappy and accepted the cracked helmet as the guy I was flying with jammed it on my head. Still the nerves did not surface. I was the second last to go of eight people. I was told how important it was for me to 'run like a horse' when he told me to run. Easier said than done. I guess running like a horse pulling a carriage maybe! Finally we started to move and we were speeding down a gravelly hill then suddenly my feet were no longer touching the ground and I was flying! Gliding! Floating! Whatever the right word is.

Words can't really say how it felt. Nor will photos. But of course I will give it a go.

There were no feelings but that of awe and excitement as we soared over the mountains, flying so high there were eagles flying below us. I felt as though I were sitting in an armchair - like the silver chair from those children's books. You know the chair with the wings? I was comfortable and able to take photos. My guy started to hum some song as we meandered through the sky. I say I felt nothing but awe and excitement but there did come a time that I felt my stomach depart from where it should be when my guy decided to do some tricks. Corkscrew seems the most appropriate name for it. Kind of reminded me of the gravitron.

Landing I knew I was grinning from ear to ear even if my tummy was feeling a little displaced. But what better way to ease a freaked out tummy than soda water followed by the most amazing boysenberry ice cream? Well it worked for me.

The rest of the night paled in comparison to that experience. Except for the part where İ found my sunnies at the internet cafe. After dinner (where I almost fell asleep in my lentil soup) I pretty much passed out and didn't even notice the cold temperature of the room. İt ıs a beautiful thing being too tired to notice discomfort.

Hosçakal

Hiking the Lycian trail and paragliding in Ölüdeniz remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Pammukale to Fethiye

2009-06-01T01:56:42Z

7am start today and I really felt it. But being determined to never be last on the bus I sped through my morning routine. I think I read the book Ping too many times as a kid!

Breakfast was bought at the bus depot. A cha (tea), ayran (yoghurt drink) and a bready chocolate thing that did not deliver on flavour and almost dehydrated me when I ate it.

Now wait to be impressed... As we stopped along the way for a 'cha on the house' at a concrete slab, I said thank you in Turkish and it was so good that they guy thought I spoke fluent Turkish! Now that's a compliment. Especially after I accidentally said goodbye instead of thank you at my breakfast. Oops.

I was again surprised at the richness of the scenery. We moved from fields to forests of pine trees and as we were in a local bus we had the roof open and the smell of pines filled the bus.

The entertainment for the trip was an elderly Turkish couple. But the real entertainment was the wife. She was practically screaming instead of talking. We worked out that her husband was mostly deaf and she obviously no longer knew how to talk at a volume suitable outside of a stadium.

We drove through a very touristy Fethiye to our village near by where we are staying in a very cold room. However, the weather has been glorious so I can handle wearing a few more clothes to bed.

We had not had lunch by this stage and I was starting to lose my usual charm. A bunch of us decided to join Yusuf (our leader) at Salkikent Gorge. Well I don't think I would have said yes if I had known it was a 50 minute drive. By the time we arrived I was ready to eat the bus seats. 2.30pm and we finally sat down in a beautiful spot on the milky blue water. Chicken Shish and a cheery juice (way to sweet for me!) But the highlight...A puppy!!! I started to get pangs for a Savvy cuddle but I refrained from doing more than just offering the little black puppy my lunch scraps.

Then can the excitement. Yusuf took one look at my target thongs (sorry, flip flops) and said there was no chance I would be able to hold onto those if I was going to do the walk up the Gorge in fast running water. So we (Rachel and I) were convinced we could do the walk barefoot. So shoes came off, bag left with the remainder of the group who just shook their heads at the sight of the fast running water the colour of a weak latte. I secured my camera in a zip lock bag (are you proud of me Amma?) and stuffed it down my bra (a habit picked up from my workplace!)

In a nutshell. It was wet (I got drenched up to my waist). The water was FREEZING. Coming directly from those snow capped mountains I was admiring so much. And it was fast fast water. The rocks we coudln't see underfoot were not sharp but they were loose and all different sizes. But I loved it. We survived and we have pictorial proof.

Now for the real challenge. Drying off. Why oh why had I not brought a change of clothes. Back in Fethiye I really did look like I'd wet my pants. Not the best of looks. So I tied my newly acquired pashmere (or at least a genuine fake) around my waist. After a stint at the internet cafe (where I left my sunnies!) I bought a Kadiyre which is basically as super super sweet treat of honey and I think some sort of shredded wheat.

Back at the hotel for an early night (whatever that is) and a freezing cold night at that.

I'm tired. No doubt about that. But I'm deliciously tired.

Hoscakal

Pammukale to Fethiye remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Selçuk to Pammukale

2009-06-01T02:22:20Z

Merhaba

I was soooo sorry to leave Selçuk but more wonders awaited....after a very long trip.

The bus ride was not the most comfortable but again, it was worth it. The scenery is like nothing I expected (I guess I thought it would be barren). Green, lush, with snow capped mountains in the back ground and herds of goats milling around the road. Olive groves, fruit groves, lots of tractors and craggy mountains. We tried some local delicacy of Alicaz which looked like a bucket of lard but infact tasted like incredibly sweet rice pudding. I've taken to the yoghurt drink here. It's not to everyone's taste as it is like having runny jalna. A bit tart for those with a sweet tooth in the group which appears to be most of them.

My first glimpse of Pammukale Travertines was breathtaking. Reaching up into the sky were these white cliffs blindingly bright in the midday sun. We arrived at our hotel (Melrose Place!) and walked back into town in the heat and then up the white cliff until we were standing in the cool aqua water of the calcium rich water.

Once we reached the top the idea of swimming in hot thermal springs was not as inviting as they had been when we were travelling here. Too hot to imagine getting warmer I decided to visit the Hieropolis museum. I know it can get a bit boring seeing ruin after ruin but I'm not there yet. Looking at these remains I imagine what it was like for the archaeolist who discovered it. I imagine who it was who carved it. I image how many people admired these things however many year ago. Oh, and the museum was nice and cool.

After this I sat in the shade enjoying a rather expensive but well earned Fistik Magnum and just enjoyed the site of the Travertines. I'm sorry I don't have photos to put up yet but I would suggest doing a google search in pictures and you will see why I can't really put it into words.

But the real magic for me was when I wandered away from the group and explored Hieropolis. I walked along roads that were overgrown but still existed after all these years. I found myself up at a church where I shared the view with a tortoise, a dragonfly, a lizard and a few million poppies and daisies. Oh and the soundtrack was the breeze moving through fields of green wheat like things and a chorus of birds.

After that I explored more and ended the evening watching the sun set over the Travertines.

Sigh!!!!

Selçuk to Pammukale remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Bursa to Selçuk

2009-06-01T02:37:16Z

Now we are getting somewhere!

I won't go into the details of the bus ride but İ will tell you of the special treat that has become a favourite. Magnum Fistik. That is a pistachio Magnum!!

Arrival in Selçuk was a beautiful thing after such a long night in the rather rustic hotel in Bursa. However, Bursa had its charms in silk scarves and whirling dervishes. The later was miraculous to witness but even more so when we were welcomed with such enthusiasm by the women in the Mosque who pulled up forward and gave up their seats in order for us to see. These guys in a trance like state whirled for about half an hour non-stop. Mostly with their eyes closed and they never hit a wall or anything. They looked truly serene. It was worth the accommodation (which was tiny rooms with one shower and squat toilet to share between all 13 of us)

But back to Selçuk.

A clean room with an en suite was likely to make any experience there a pleasure but what an incredible place! My first visit was to the Basilica of St John. It was late afternoon when we got there - an hour before it closed. Perfect time to go as the sun was less strong and there was no one but me and two of my travelling companions. The stillness went straight to my core. After the hustle and bustle of travelling from here to there it was a hiatus I was ready for. Jean and Rachel left but I stayed on realising it was the first time I had been alone since the tour began. The sun continued to descend as I sat in the ruins of the Basilica dressed in the spring flowers of daisies, poppies and some other yellow flowers I don't know. And the roses! I marvelled (and truthfully found it hard to grasp) that St John the Baptist actually lived there and baptised people in the font that was still intact.

I figured not much could top that. I was wrong,

After watching the sunset from our rooftop restaurant for dinner and then enjoyıng a breakfast of fetta, egg, olives, tomato, cucumber and nescafe we headed off early to Ephesus.

I don't know what to say about this place. The civilisation was incredibly advanced and I couldn't quite work out how they lost the toilet seat over time, Why squat when you can sit? We had a guided tour of the site which I'm so glad for. And me and the Pink Lady took a few photos....that would be about 150! But it was hot, hot, hot!

When we got to the amphitheatre I was so tempted to break out in song but shy me won over and I just stood opened mouthed as I stared at the enormity of it.

In the afternoon we headed to a little village where they specialise in fruit wine. The perfect place for Alicia! Peach, pomegranate, kiwi, quince, strawberry, blackberry, raspberry and more. Sweet, sweet, sweet.

Dinner was a chance for me to try the Turkish Raki. Well, try is the word. It's much like cough medicine. A couple of sips was enough for me. Even when I shared it with the whole group it was hardly touched. Well, these things need to by tried And it was Pam's birthday so we got cake as well!

It was so sad to leave Selçuk but so much more awaits.

Bursa to Selçuk remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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İstanbul, apple tea, ice-cream & lots of walking

2009-06-01T02:46:03Z

Okay this will be my attempt at writing with a Turkish keyboard. Note that where there is an İ I might type a ı and İ have no İdea what that looks like when İ'm on a Turkish computer.

İ can hardly believe it has been only three days! İ don't know where to begin. Typing is very slow so İ should be able to think of everything.

My arrival in İstanbul was eventful as my transfer to the hotel did not arrive. İ was kind of over the whole travel thing by then so just wanted to get to a bed before İ fell over. A great introduction to the Turkish hospitality when a man kindly saw I was looking for help and offered me his phone to call the Intrepid office...no transfer booked!

Same man offered to take me into town (of course) for 50 Euros. Thankfully, Kate at İntrepid told me that İ should only pay 30 Turkish Lira (about 28 AUS).

İ got to the hotel safe and sound and contemplated going out to the nearby Blue Mosque but...feel into bed instead.

İn my first day I covered quite a bit. I headed out early to just walk the city. İstanbul is a beautiful city and it has lived up to my expectations. The people are lovely (if a little persistent) and there is so much to see İ'm glad İ have 6 more days at the end of this tour.

First day I went to Topkapi Palace. İ confess that İ enjoyed the park next door better. İn fact my first day was mostly spent taking photos of the amazing tulips everywhere! All colours and HUGE. I also visited the Basilica Cistern deep under Istanbul.

That night İ met my tour group. İt is always nerve racking meeting a group as you really don't know what you might get. Well, İ am pleased to report that İ got a jackpot group. A fantastic range of ages and everyone is lovely. We had dinner together on the rooftop of a restaurant where we looked out on the Blue Mosque as the sun set.

Afterwards we went to a waterpipe bar for a Turkish beer and a try of a waterpipe. Tasted like vanilla. İ have a rather hideous photo of myself smoking it.

Next day after an early morning breakfast on the rooftop of the hotel over looking both the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofya, we went on a long walking tour. My feet were already sore from the day before but there is SOOOO much to see. We saw the Grand Bazaar which was pretty amazing. I refrained from spending...for now. We had fish sandwiches down by the water, enjoyed the smells and colours of the spice market, and visited some more mosques.

After lunch some of us took some of the other sites like the Blue Mosque & Aya Sofya Museum. We then went in search of cinnamon tea....which we found ın a small tucked away garden next to another mosque. The perfect spot to rest our weary feet and watch yet another street cat stretch out in the sun. Next stop was stretchy ice-cream. İ can't remember the proper name for it. They stretch it out like dough! İ daren't ask what they put in it.

Yikes, if you have read this far you are doing pretty well.

Today after a breakfast with stunning views we travelled by ferry and bus to Bursa. İ am taking a break before going to spend some money at the silk market.

Work seems a long way away and İ am thoroughly enjoying every moment. İ get updates about Savvy which keeps me from worrying. Tomorrow we head off to Selçuk (6.5 hours of travel!!!!)

We have been blessed with weather so far..İ even managed to get a bit sunburnt. The evenings are cool though. To me that is the perfect combo.

I've taken a ridiculous number of photos but then that isn't unusual for me. I'm practising my Turkish daily with the help of Yusuf our tour guide.

Well, I better get off so my roomy Jean can email her family. Hopefully next time İ will be able to attach some photos. Can't really say İ'm missing you all but can say - İ LOVE it here. Off to find myself some apple tea...

İstanbul, apple tea, ice-cream & lots of walking remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Tired in Dubai

2009-05-06T08:49:40Z

So here I am in Dubai after a VERY long flight where we had 18 children on board under the age of eight. Even with that it was actually a great flight. I had heaps of leg room and good company. I learnt some Turkish off a woman who is travelling to Istanbul to visit her parents. All in all I've had a very pleasant trip so far. Rediculous number of movie options to watch and as per usual...I didn't sleep too well.

It is 38 degrees here which was quite a shock when we got off the plane onto the tarmack.

Right now I'm waiting for my connecting flight to Istanbul. I've had a rather dissapointing coffee which was more like hot soy milk with a bit of nutmeg, which cost me...wait for it....are you sitting down? US$5!!! It was a small coffee too. Dón't think I'll have an issue with weak coffee once I'm in Turkey!

Dubai airport is strangely sparce of people right and quite a sight. It has fountains and pristine pools with huge goldfish. I'm standing at an internet kiosk - I've managed to get the last stand which is clearly designed for someone at least six foot two...I am most definately not six foot two so I feel like I'm a kid sitting at the adults table.

I can hear the sound of muslims praying which is hauntingly beautiful. Lots more of that to come

My arms are starting to hurt having to hold them so high to type so I'll sign off now.

Next stop Istanbul!

Tired in Dubai remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Now comes the waiting, and waiting, and waiting

2009-05-05T13:21:57Z

So I'm filling in time before I jump in the car to be driven to the airport. I've never been so well prepared for a trip before! I am packed and ready - and have been since 4.30pm this afternoon. I've freshly dyed my hair and resisted the almost overwhelming desire to take scissors to my unruly locks. I've watched a movie very kindly provided by Pieta and I've cleaned my house beyond an inch of it's life! Now, when is my flight? That would 2.55am!!! That's a lot of time to fill in.

I'm actually feeling nervous now. Probably the thing that is most affecting me right now (aside from wanting to go to sleep) is the fact that I'll be leaving my puppy for three and a half weeks! Now for a non-dog owner, I'm sure that sounds ridiculous, but I've never been away from her for more than 5 days.

I'm bordering on obsessive compulsive with my check lists. I keep running through my head all the things that I've packed and talking myself out of filling the spaces in my backpack. Spaces! What a poor excuse for a female I am! Though I think I can promise with absolute certainty - I will not be using that space to bring back a carpet.

So I've been reading about Istanbul, about the origins of Turkish delight. I've been practising my Turkish - with I'm sure an entertainingly BAD accent, I've tried my best not to think about the 18+ hours of flight I have in front of me and only to focus on the incredible city where my flight ends. Istanbul. Though I've read so much about it, I imagine that it will surprise me. I'm counting on it. All new taste, sights and smells.

Well, time to go cuddle my puppy again...I know, pathetic.

signing off from Australia - next stop Dubai - then............Istanbul

Now comes the waiting, and waiting, and waiting remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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Preparations and on the countdown

2009-06-03T02:59:57Z

My arm is sore but it is all in aid of keeping me healthy on my intrepid adventure that begins in 17 days...not that I'm counting!

It seems an age since I have taken a trip overseas and I feel a little out of practice. I'd forgotten the potential volume of stuff you can buy thinking that you need it for your trip. It costs a lot of money even before you step on the plane! But the reality is that once I am on that plane...sigh. Turkey, Turkey, here I come. Ready or not, here I come!

From the 6th of May until May 28th

Preparations and on the countdown remains copyright of the author BellaGo, a member of the travel community Travellerspoint.

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